Which of East Africa’s Indian Ocean islands is for you?
Marketing brochures seem to just scream about luxury resorts on palm-fringed beaches, but East Africa’s Indian Ocean islands are as diverse as the islanders, spice merchants and explorers that have shaped them.
Whether you’re looking for giant coconuts or giant tortoises; lush rainforests, cool highlands or lambent coral reefs; or crossroads cuisine and curious wildlife, there’s an island to suit every taste and budget.
“Let us preserve our heritage……..Genuine eco-tourism means tourism that has no negative impact on eco-systems, and positively contributes to the destination on a social and environmental level“
Best for barefoot luxury and diving
Quirimbas, Bazaruto and Seychelles
Divers and high-spending beach aficionados love Mozambique’s Quirimbas and Bazaruto archipelagos not only for their flawless, flour-white beaches, but for the thrill of seeing giant manta rays floating over thriving coral reefs, whale sharks cruising underwater canyons and Africa’s largest population of dugongs grazing in the long seagrass. East Africa’s five turtle species are all found here, nesting along miles of unspoilt beaches, while out to sea 2000 species of fish nibble at vibrant coral gardens. There’s no doubt, the 32 islands are expensive to reach, although new flights from Tanzania have improved access. The upside of this is the ecological integrity of the marine environment and some seriously sexy beach accommodation such as Vamizi (vamizi.com), Guludo (guludo.com), Azura Benguerra (azura-retreats.com) and Bazaruto lodges. Only the Seychelles comes close in terms of water clarity and island exclusivity, with superb diving opportunities off private island getaways such as Desroches, Fregate and North, and a unique Whale Shark monitoring programme (mcss.sc) based in Mahe.
When to go: Bazaruto and Quirimbas (May-June), Seychelles (April-September)
Cost of travel per day: Bazaruto and Quirimbas US$250+; Seychelles US$175-250
Best for culture
Zanzibar, Mauritius and Lamu
For over a thousand years East Africa’s islands provided strategic bases along trade routes linking the Arabian Peninsula, Europe and the Indian Subcontinent. Portuguese sailors, Omani traders, Gujarati merchants, and colonials from Netherlands, France and Britain gravitated here to farm spices and sugar cane, and to trade in gold, ivory and slaves. The result of this complicated history is a rich layering of cultures, particularly evident in Lamu’s 15th-century Swahili ruins, Zanzibar’s Shirazi heritage and the historic plantation homes and Creole cuisine of Mauritius. Lamu town is the oldest inhabited settlement in Kenya and shares much in common with Zanzibar’s Stone Town. Both take the form of a classical Arabian medina maze, with multi-storied, balconied townhouses shading narrow lanes filled with souks selling artisanal crafts in wood, silver, leather and ukili (date palm leaves). It’s these centuries-old, living traditions that independent travellers find most rewarding. In January Lamu celebrates the Maulid Festival with poetry, music and the historic Zefe procession, while Zanzibari families gather each evening to snack on sweet mandazi (Swahili donuts) and promenade in the Forodhani Gardens. Although not directly affected by the problems related to nearby Somalia, Lamu’s proximity to them has led it to often be included in travel advisories by Western governments. A much-loved Mauritian tradition is the table d’hote, a ‘hosted’ meal of Creole delicacies such as honey lamb with cinnamon, often served with a soulful dose of Séga (a style of music brought to the island by African slaves).
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Susan Day
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October 29, 2018 at 8:33 am
Carol Silva
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October 29, 2018 at 8:35 am